A moveable feast

How time flies! It seemed just like yesterday that Zorawar Kalra’s KODE opened its doors and upped the swank at Kamala Mills with its mix of Peruvian, Turkish, Mexican and Japanese cuisine – and it’s already a year old. To celebrate the anniversary, a new menu by chef Momin Faqi was rolled out with several high-on-taste dishes.

Interiors

Divided into a stylish bar space and dining area, the centerpiece is the striking bar right up centre as soon as you enter. With the décor designed by Tokyo-based architect Masafumi Sanada who’s known for his understated sensibilities, one entire wall is done with natural stone slabs handpicked from the mines of Rajasthan.

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Cocktails & Cuisine

A spot of drama is a hallmark of any of Kalra’s establishments and here it came with Bird’s Eye – a luscious, fruity, vodka-based cocktail that had a live cinnamon stick burning from it. This went really well with the Roasted Mushrooms which were deliciously glazed with a balsamic reduction and sprinkle of sesame seeds. The Gorgonzola Stuffed Chicken Wings were chunky chicken nuggets offering a wonderful bite of pungency from the blue cheese, while crusty taco shells contained Barbeque Chicken with Sriracha Sauce dwelling on the right side of spicy. Their famous Pides (Turkish flatbreads) sported a new entry of Caramelised Apple & Bacon – slightly sweet but balanced by the bacon bits. In mains, the Seafood Ramen with calamari, prawns and massaman curry was a hearty dish that four could share happily.

 

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Caramelised Apple & Bacon Pide

 

Standout Dish

The Honey Glazed Lemon Chicken was simply sublime with its creamy chives mash.

Sore Spot

Although I didn’t try the Scrambled Eggs Ice-cream on French toast that sounded fantastically unique, both the Tiramisu and Panna Cotta were too rubbery in texture and low on taste.

(Kode, Gate No 4, Kamala Mills, Lower Parel, Mumbai; Tel +91-7718882923)

By Farhad J. Dadyburjor, Mumbai

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